Bienvenue!

As the Publisher behind French Provincial Magazine, I have the privilege of overseeing the next two editions while Fran Stephenson takes a short break. We certainly appreciate her wonderful contributions both as writer and Editor last year and look forward to her return.
With this wonderful opportunity falling in my lap, I have felt a keen enjoyment delving into each of the articles by our wonderful writers. I keep turning to my French husband to exclaim, “Did you know the French…?” “I know, love,” is always his reply. But I can’t help sharing my excitement – I adore French culture. (Although, please don’t divulge my Francophilia to my neighbouring ancestors, the Italians!)
Are you in search of a new French destination or uncertain about what to put on your list for your first-time visit? You need to explore sunny St Tropez –  playground of the rich and famous on the French Riviera. On page 18, Kerree French discovers that too much is never enough in Saint “Trop”!

 Easter is not far away and “did you know” that giant omelettes are a popular French Easter tradition? In villages all over France, omelettes, sometimes containing as many as 50 or 60 eggs, are baked in one huge pan on Easter Monday (page 34).

 For first time travellers to Paris, Keith Hall takes us for a whirl on the Métro - the fastest and most efficient way of getting around the city. A major tourist attraction in its own right, Keith reveals the styles and the history behind some remarkable stations (page 14).

As we enjoy autumn in Australia, Ute Schulenberg remembers her last autumn in France, when she did a spot of olive harvesting. Ute takes you on a journey From Tree to Oil through all the processes of harvesting and the extraction of the flavoursome oil – that vital ingredient in French cuisine (page 40).

 For more mouth-watering autumnal fare, our Chef Cherry Macleay shares her favourite quince recipes in Leçon de Cuisine on page 54, while Christine Descouyete, in the second part of our At Home in Normandy series, shares some of her favourite apple recipes on page 32.

These are just a few of the fascinating features in our Autumn Edition from our wonderful writers.

 Jouir de (Enjoy)

Jenny Jacob / Publisher-Editor

 NEXT EDITION – In our Winter Edition, we take a look at the most-visited paid monument in the world – the Eiffel Tower. We also explore the Champagne-Ardenne region. With a wealth of cultural and sporting activities, it is the ideal holiday destination… Don’t miss the Winter edition for these features and lots more!

Get your copy  now by subscription, or from selected newsagents.

The restaurant was never intended to be a culinary museum. Thierry Cornevin together with ChefFrederic Naud regularly return to France to bring back the latest ideas and techniques in modernFrench cuisine. However, the bistro has built its reputation on the consistently high standards of the entire menu from the foie gras entree to exquisitely simple but perfect le steak frites to the selection of fine French cheeses.

You can find Thierry most nights greeting both his dedicated regulars and new customers with equal enthusiasm. The team of charismatic French waiters are as serious about making your experience relaxing and enjoyable as they are about the quality of the food,wine and service.Care is taken with all the details that make a restaurant one you want to return to, excellent fresh produce, well balanced and flavoursome meals, and the unique French touches that leave you smiling.

511 Malvern Road, Toorak VIC 3142, Australia, (03) 9824 0888

www.bistrothierry.com

OH, FOR A DOGS LIFE…

In Paris – a city not renowned for its friendliness – they say, if you want to meet people, it’s easy: get a dog.

The Parisian dog population is estimated to be around 500,000, but the Capital is not alone when it comes to canine affection – the whole country shares its feelings. The French truly love their dogs.

To accurately estimate the number of dogs in France is difficult. The unofficial figure is around 10 million, which equates to 17 dogs for every 100 people. There is no doubt, however, that France leads the world in dog ownership. Each of those millions of dogs is adored and doted on by its owner, 40% of whom claim their dogs are the most important things in their lives – even more than their lovers.

I recall a trip we took from Paris to Toulouse last year – the person opposite us on the train happily allowed her dog to sleep on her lap for the entire 4-hour journey. When we arrived at our hotel we giggled at the tariff list behind our door – “Avec le chien – €8.00 par nuit” (with dog – €8 per night). Later that evening, we saw the behind of a little “€8.00 extra” trotting into the room next door. The same dog was at breakfast the following morning, its doting owners fussing over it as if it were a baby.

Yes, dogs are welcome in most French hotels and they’re hardly ever discriminated against when renting accommodation. They’re also permitted on public transport, in hairdressers, shops and museums, even in doctor’s surgeries. It’s not unusual to see a dog in a supermarket, sitting up in a shopping trolley, while in restaurants they are fed, watered and sometimes sit beside their owners at the table. “No Dogs” signs are rare, and, even if they do see one, the French are apt to ignore them; dogs are part of the French way of life – after all, they’re family.

In her book Almost French, Sarah Turnbull recalls her first visit to a restaurant with her puppy, Maddie, where waiters “performed a pantomime of fussing and pampering…”

“Out comes a bowl of water – the same dish which will later contain someone’s soup or chocolate mousse. A few minutes later they slip her a sliver of pork terrine. A saucer of fragrant rosemary lamb – cut into tiny bites – lands under the table…Maddie has had apéritif, first course and main before Frédéric and I have even glimpsed a menu”.

Exclusively canine restaurants can be found throughout France and the lucky dogs of Paris even have their own patisserie – Mon Bon Chien – where they can enjoy a snack while being fitted out in the latest canine haute couture.

In a country where vets are reputed to earn more than doctors, canine fashion, toys and grooming – or toilettage - are big business. The French spend a staggering €3 billion annually on their dogs, whose appearance they consider to be just as important as their own. Records show that the first dog-grooming parlours date back to the time of Louis XV and today most towns have at least one dog-grooming salon.

In Paris, toilettage is a serious business indeed. Here you’ll find the world-renowned Marie Poirier salon, its walls covered with photos of the rich and famous, its clients awaiting their treatment on low leather armchairs. When you step inside this luxurious establishment, you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve walked straight into a stylish fashion boutique. But that, of course, is exactly what it is – not for people, but for canines.

The notorious Madame Poirier, who has outraged many pedigree associations with her unconventional styling, not only provides every beauty treatment imaginable, from hairstyling and nail buffing to plucking and waxing, but also sells accessories such as bejewelled collars, silk bed canopies and the latest chic fashions from the new season’s dog “catwalk” collection.

One unpleasant aspect of France’s vast dog population is abundantly evident on the pavements of towns and cities, where thousands of dogs leave their “calling cards”. Many city councils have decided to take action by introducing hefty, on-the-spot fines and I must attest to seeing a noticeable difference in the streets of Paris during my recent visits. I know it’s considered good luck to step in something unpleasant, but this is of little consolation when you do.

In France, as in many countries, breeds go in and out of “mode” and the fickle finger of fashion has a great deal of influence over one’s choice of dog. However, the National Dog of France – the Poodle – has remained a fashionable accessory among the aristocratic, rich or famous for centuries.

Often wrongly referred to as “French Poodles”, their origins can be traced back to Germany and Russia in the 1500’s. Although they have a reputation for being “all beauty and no brains”, devotees claim they’re actually highly intelligent, easy to train, energetic and adorable pets. Throughout the centuries, Poodles have been used by the French for a range of purposes – as guide dogs, gun-dogs, hunting dogs, duck-retrievers, truffle dogs, for military work and as performers.

The famous “Papillon” poodle, so named for its distinctive, butterfly-shaped ears, can be traced back to the time of Louis XlV and appears in many royal family portraits. The drop-eared variety, known as a “Phalène”, was the dog of choice of such figures as Madame de Pompadour and Henry III of England while Marie Antoinette is said to have walked to the guillotine clutching her beloved Phalèn, “Thisbe”. (The pup was spared and lived out the rest of its days in a house in Paris which is still called the “House of the Papillon”. )

Today, this cute little dog’s petite size makes it a popular choice among city apartment dwellers while Poodles of all kinds are considered the ultimate fashion accessory – conveniently available in a variety of colours and sizes from the large or “standard” to the tiny, fragile “tea-cup”.

Yet there is another, very different, breed of dog that can almost claim to equal the Poodle as a national symbol of France – the French bulldog or “Bouledogue”, commonly known as a “Frenchie”. These dogs are thought to have originated from the miniature or “toy” bulldogs brought to France by Nottingham lace weavers during the industrial revolution. They often belonged to the butchers and coachmen of Paris’s “Les Halles” markets.

Later, the Frenchies’ funny faces and lovable characters began to appeal to members of high society and the artistic community. Nowadays, these powerful, muscular, compact dogs are still a popular choice. Energetic, intelligent, “one-owner” dogs, they have an irresistible, expressive gaze but are known to be prone to jealousy.

In a country like Australia, where a dog is simply a dog, with simple needs and pleasures, we cannot help but be amused by the over-indulgent French dog owners. I’m certain of one thing, however – next time round I’m hoping for a dog’s life in France.

Fran Stephenson

Since the company’s inception over 20 years ago, Stile has become one of Australia’s largest importers of quality Italian furniture.

Quality & style remains the key focus and primary point of difference across our product range.

Strong bonds with our European manufacturers provide Stile with access to the latest in furniture designs and making us the primary importer of many exclusive pieces of furniture.

Our vast ranges include styles such as Louis XV, Louis XVI, provincial, art deco, beidermier plus various other traditional and contemporary styles.

Our products range from chairs, armchairs, bergere, display units, sideboards and numerous occasional pieces.

Tables that range in size from compact 1mt tables to our large 6mt banquet tables.

Most items can be finished to your requirements. You pick the colour, fabrics,etc.

We also have furniture suitable for smaller applications such as apartments and retirement living.

(As leaders in our field, we assure the quality of our products and service from receipt of the initial order to the final consignment of goods)

21 – 23 ASSEMBLY DRIVE TULLAMARINE
VICTORIA AUSTRALIA 3043
PHONE: 0061 3 93385959
FAX: 0061 3 93380287
EMAIL: info@stile.net.au

Website:  www.stile.net.au

FRANCE

Falling in love with France as many others do, and being ask by many people to bring back the treasures from France, has led me to launch a new internet site Parisian Influence.

My journeys through-out Southern Northern & Eastern France has given me the chance to immerse myself in everything French and allowed me to bring back my treasures and influences from the French countryside, Paris and Europe.

TRADE FAIR PARIS

Attending the largest home ware fair in Europe is a feast for the eyes, and for everyone who loves that French flair for unique and beautiful home wares, every taste is catered for spaning over 5 km of stalls.

With colour palates of muted grey, white wash, ochre, vanilla and latte, this year’s displays were another example of how the French display their wares as works of art. Even if it is vegetables at the markets or chocolate pastries at the patisserie their presentation is superb.

MARKET FINDS

I have met some wonderful people on my travels throughout the French countryside, and to hear the stories behind my treasures makes them truly special. Antique linen is one of my favourite things, knowing that you have an antique linen sheet that was once given to the Bride on their wedding day or hand embroidered by the new mother in law to be, makes the pieces just a little more special.

Copper pots and pans is another of the items I love to collect. The French take their food very seriously, so what better way to try out those French recipes than to cook in the original copper pots.

Parisian Influence stocks the much sought after pieces of Limoges China, Christfofle silverware, antique linen, copper pots, and many other special one of pieces from the brocante Markets of France. Parisian Influence also has a new home wares range to complement and adorn your home and add that French provincial feel. Our range is the latest range of new home wares direct from Europe and Paris.

ADDITIONAL RANGES

We also stock a small range of stunning home wares from the very well known in France, Mis en demeure. Founded in 1993 in France, Mis en Demeure offers a wide choice of high end accessories & objects for elegant homes and apartments. Mis en Demeure strives to maintain a unique atmosphere marked by past centuries reinterpreted with current taste. It is through the owner and designer Phillipe Daraux’s contemporary approach that simple objects become timeless.

Mathilde M is a small complementary range for the French bathroom and home, designed and manufactured in France. Beautiful embroidered hand towels, bathroom accessories, medicis prints for the home and bedroom. And in a latte palate, gorgeous French lamps with fragrance burners attached to permeate throughout the bedroom or home.

NEW ARRIVALS

New Arrivals and just in time for Christmas, include a stunning range of antique style Christmas Decorations in antique rose and antique silver. For the hard to buy for a unique range of fun aprons all hand painted and made in France, displaying cows with fromage, chooks cooking Poule a la crème and not forgetting les macaroons in stunning colours of cumin, raspberry and anise.

JEWELLERY

Also new to the Parisian Influence range a special collection of rings and bracelets made with ancient French Francs, and if you were lucky enough to be born between 1962-1987, you can have it personalised with the franc in your birth year.

COMING SOON

Make sure you subscribe to the Parisian Influence newsletter on the website for new arrivals, my latest one of special pieces from the markets of Provence, Toulouse, Carpentras and Avignon are on the way!

Tarte aux fraises et crème au basilic

Strawberry tart with basil cream

This is perhaps the most popular tart in the world. It is the most plain as well, because with this tart the strawberry is the star. So it is very important to buy the best local strawberries you can find: very red, not too big and not too small. And please, only buy them when they are in season — your pleasure will double when you know it is for such a limited time.

Tip: This beautiful tart cannot be kept for more than a day —the pastry may turn soggy and the strawberries would look sad!

250 g pastry cream (recipe page XX), infused with basil leaves

(from 2 bunches), see below, cooled

300 g sweet pastry, prepared a day ahead (see recipe page XX), room temperature

egg wash (1 egg and 1 egg yolk beaten with 50 ml milk)

125 g Chantilly cream (see recipe page XX)

24–30 strawberries, stemmed, washed, halved and dried on a tea towel

2 tablespoons apricot jam

2 tablespoons water

When making the pastry cream follow the instructions on page XX, and when the milk is boiling, remove from the heat and add the basil. Cover and let it infuse for about 15 minutes. Remove the basil. Boil the milk again and follow the rest of the recipe.

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Roll out the pastry on a floured work surface into a circle about 3 mm thick and 30 cm in diameter, to line a 25-cm diameter tart pan. Trim the edges and cover the inside and edges of the pastry with aluminium foil. Bake for 6 minutes, then take the tart out of the oven and gently remove the foil. Brush some egg wash over the inside of the tart. Bake for a further 6–8 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool completely.

Mix the Chantilly cream and pastry cream together in a bowl with a wooden spoon, then spread into the tart shell until it is ¾ full. Place the strawberries cut side down, starting from the outer edges of the tart and working towards the centre, covering the cream filling completely.

Dissolve the apricot jam in the water in a small saucepan over low heat. Using a pastry brush, cover the strawberries with the apricot glaze. Refrigerate the tart until ready to serve.

Serves 8.

Recipe by Emmanuel Mollois from Chous cafe.

Photographs by Karin Calvert-Borshoff from Et Voila! French pastries from Choux Cafe published by Fremantle Press.

Located in the heart of Southern Burgundy Cluny is a hidden gem.

Only 90km from Lyon, Cluny is easily accessible by car or by any of the many tour buses which operate in the region. All year round this area is picturesque, but during March and April the wild-flowers are especially beautiful.

During the Middle Ages Cluny was a major political and spiritual power, with it’s Benedictine abbey remaining the largest Christian church in the world for hundreds of years. The abbey has now become Cluny’s most famous tourist attraction, along with the collection of medieval sculptures and 18^th Century religious artifacts located in the Museum of Art and Archaeology. Many of the abbey buildings were destroyed during the French Revolution. However some of the ruins have been preserved and are now home to a family of local cats, who are more than happy to pose for a photo or two.

The edges of the town were defined in the 12^th century and many towers, gates and ramparts still remain, as well as many beautiful Romanesque houses, all of which make strolling the narrow streets of Cluny a fascinating experience.

After you have taken in all the historical attractions, you may wish to indulge yourself in some locally made chocolates or cake. The Pâtisserie ‘Germain’ on rue Lamartine is the perfect place for such indulgences. Owned by the Germain family since 1978, it is definitely my favourite place to eat in Cluny.  They sell all manner of handmade chocolates, cakes, mousses and other types of sweets in their store as well as in their delightfully quaint tea-rooms.  For more wholesome food or the best coffee in Cluny try ‘La Nation’, a café by day and restaurant by night.  The terrace opens out onto the town square, so it’s a great spot for people watching; the interesting mix of locals and tour groups never fails to entertain. The square itself is worth a look for the beautiful murals painted onto the surrounding buildings, which depict various aspects of life in Cluny as well as some moments of historical significance.

If you are a lover of shopping there are no less than five antique shops and brocantes in Cluny, as well as gift and homewares stores and even a shop selling locally made woven baskets. Of those, my pick is ‘Antiquites Valentin’. It is tucked away just off the main street and the tiny store is filled with beautiful mirrors, paintings and large pieces of furniture, as well as old books, musical instruments, silverware and china. The owner, Thierry, speaks only a little English, but his passion for antiques is hard to miss. My favourite item, which would definitely have pushed my baggage into the ‘overweight’ territory, was a set of scales and weights. Though much of the story was unfortunately lost in translation I deduced that the set had belonged to the regional tax-collector in a period a few hundred years past.

If your are staying overnight there is no shortage of places to stay in and around the centre of Cluny. The Hotel de Bourgogne is the perfect base for those who like a little luxury and fine cuisine while being right in the heart of the oldest part of Cluny. The helpful, English speaking staff are very knowledgeable about local events and interesting attractions off the beaten path. Even if you don’t stay at Hotel de Bourgogne the Restaurant is open for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner every day. If the weather is fine I recommend the walled courtyard, as it has a lovely atmosphere and a gnome house in amongst the flowers. Remember to save some room for dessert, as the apple crumble is delicious beyond description.

If you would prefer to experience Cluny as a ‘local’ then La Maison Tupinier may be for you. The second floor of a beautiful 16^th century building has been tastefully converted into two elegant self contained apartments. Owner Luc, who is a passionate collector of French antiques, completed all the renovations himself. His impeccable taste extends to the colours on the wall and the rugged beauty of the courtyard garden. From the windows of both living rooms you have a view of the main abbey building and can watch the people of Cluny passing by. In true French style the ground floor is occupied by a bakery, so you can awake each morning to the delicious smell of freshly baked baguette.

To truly uncover the wonder of Cluny and the French countryside, you need to dig a little deeper than a one hour stop to visit the most famous attraction. There is a wealth of beauty, history and    culture  to uncover.

Tamsien West

Link for map- (Map of the township of Cluny, if you would like to use it)

http://www.uk.cluny-tourisme.com/pdf/plan_ville_cluny.pdf

Hotel de Bourgogne www.hotel-cluny.com

Germain www.chocolaterie-germain.fr

La Maison Tupinier www.lamaisontupinier.fr

Millefenilles

Writing a book about French pastry without mentioning millefeuille would be like eating a great cheese without red wine. So my duty is to show you how to create the real millefeuille, dusted with icing sugar, in the old French tradition. Millefeuille with fondant icing became popular relatively recently.

650 g puff pastry, prepared a day

ahead or frozen (see recipe page 21)

egg wash (1 egg and 1 egg yolk

beaten with 50 ml milk)

caster sugar

600 g pastry cream, prepared a

day ahead (see recipe page 17), cold

200 ml Chantilly cream (see recipe page 15), cold

Grand Marnier, if desired

icing sugar, sifted

Preheat the oven to 180°C and line a baking tray with greaseproof paper.

Roll the puff pastry out until it is 2 mm thick and as big as the baking tray. Brush some egg wash over the top and sprinkle with caster sugar. Cover with a sheet of greaseproof paper and another baking tray to prevent the pastry rising too much.

Bake for 15 minutes, then remove the top tray and greaseproof paper and bake, uncovered, for a further 5 minutes. The pastry is cooked when it is golden brown. Leave to cool completely.

Whisk the pastry cream in a bowl until soft, then gently incorporate the Chantilly cream. Add a few drops of Grand Marnier, if desired.

Lay the pastry on a work surface and cut it lengthwise into three identical rectangles. 1 Trim the edges 2 then set them side by side with the caramelised side up.

Serves 8.

Recipe by Emmanuel Mollois from Chous cafe.

Photographs by Karin Calvert-Borshoff from Et Voila! French pastries from Choux Cafe published by Fremantle Press.

Download the pages mentioned in this recipe. Page 15 Page 17 Page 21

Cafés are the great social levellers. Not as raucous as a bar and too relaxed to be a restaurant, they have a reputation for being open, lively and dense with talk. Excellent public spaces, they’ve become a place to chat; to sit and think; to meet and discuss; to argue, to mix ideas and play games of skill or chance; and to fall in love, make a break, or just make eyes.

Originating in the 16^th century in the Middle East, the world’s first coffee house was opened in Damascus in 1530, and soon they started dotting other parts of the Ottoman Empire.

Their debut in Europe, however, wasn’t until the opening of a café in Venice in 1645. From there it wan’t long till cafés became the West’s new craze. France’s first café was founded in Paris in 1671, and not long afterwards the Café Le Procope was opened, also in Paris, in 1686. Still in business today, it was a famous meeting place for luminaries of the French Enlightenment, including Voltaire, Rousseau and Diderot, and some argue that it is the birthplace of the Encyclopédie, the first modern encyclopaedia.

Cafés have since become a French institution, offering excellent coffee, reliable food and a diverse crowd for company. From the grand, gilded city cafés to humble worker’s cafes, rural bistros with Madam presiding, and the legendary Parisian cafes that were home to writers, artists and philosophers, they are places to do as the French do best – celebrate life, good company, and most of all, good food!

“A little piece of France in Melbourne”

One year ago Dominique and Robert opened une petite French café in Melbourne’s Royal Arcade. They envisioned a real French café, with French breads, pastries and light meals, wrapped up by the aromatic atmosphere of café life. They called it Café au Soleil.

With her head poking out of the half-closed glass door, I talked to Dominique as she closed up for the day. Smiling, she recounted how the idea for the café was conceived. “We wanted to create a little piece of France here in Melbourne,” she said. “The opportunity came and we took it. We were both out of work, and we thought we could do it.”

Café au Soleil really is very ‘French’. The pastries and breads are made by a French pastry chef, whom Dominique used to work for. The croissants are light, crisp and satisfyingly firm, and the brioche, not too sweet, is made with generous helpings of currants.

I returned another day at lunchtime to find the café full. Around me people spoke in French, and the room buzzed with the clatter and smells of a busy lunch crowd. I ordered a crêpe simplette, and was presented with a delicate and delicious crêpe filled with gorgonzola cheese, served with a mixed green salad.

The interior is very small, and the décor has an aged, slightly peculiar and eclectic feeling of a lived-in space. It speaks like a place that has accumulated a personality, the walls detailing a history all of their own. There are blue and yellow tiles, bottles lines up on the sill, and sweet breads displayed in unison on the high service counter. Wooden crates house cute paraphernalia. The blackboard is written in cursive. Round wooden tables, for only two people, harbour two equally-rounded wooden chairs.

Originally from Montpellier in the south of France, Dominique compares their café to others in France and shrugs. “We’re not restaurateurs, we’re amateurs,” she says.

But still, their standards are high. Only the two of them work in the café, even though it’s busy from open to close. “We are perfectionists,” she says. “We like things just right – just the way we like it.”

They speak briskly and clearly, keeping pace with the café. “We’re busy,” she admits, throwing up her hands with an exasperated, happy grin. “Always busy!”

By Jill Farrar